Janice Wainwright

I love a bit of Janice wainwright’s 70s designs, which are still affordable compared to, for example, Ossie Clarke but also use good quality fabrics.

Janice Wainwright was born in 1940, in Chesterfield, UK. She studied at the Wimbledon School of Art, the Kingston School of Art and the Royal College of Art in London.

From 1965 to 1968, she worked for the company Simon Massey, creating many lines under her own name. Then followed 6 year of freelance designing. She worked for some time with Sheridan Barnett.

In 1970 she started her own label, ‘Janice Wainwright at Forty Seven Poland Street,’ which continued until around 1974. Her Poland-Street-era work is what has become the signature Wainwright look — using wonderful jerseys, chiffons, and crepes for beautiful bias cut dresses, stylishly tailored suits, and glamorous top and skirt ensembles. At this point she also began to use embroidery extensively in her work, both in art deco inspired motifs and intricately designed birds and flowers.

From around 1974, her work began to bear the simpler ‘Janice Wainwright’ label, although sometimes the two labels turn up in the same ensemble, so they must have had a crossover period. Towards the mid 1970s, she continued developing her surface decoration techniques by using devore, satin ribbons, and simpler silver thread embroidery. In the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s she seemed to return to the simpler fabrics and shapes she favored in the 1960s, but continued creating beautifully flattering clothes.

Her trademark was the use of beautiful, sumptuous high-quality fabrics, most of which she sourced ( and often helped to design) from the best textile producers in Europe and the Far East. The company closed in 1990. She was also, according to Judith Watt’s Ossie Clark book, the only other designer permitted to use Celia Birtwell’s printed textiles in the 1960s. Ossie greatly respected Janice as a designer.

http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/wainwright-janice/

Janice Wainwright pictured with her models

1968 Rayon Dress, retailed at Sidney Smith Boutique (courtesy of V & A Museum and Museum of Costume, Bath )

http://emmapeelpants.blogspot.com/2010/09/epic.html

Lurex bra and skirt by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, silver boots by Richard Smith, bead necklace made by hand by Bibette at Quorum.The other blonde and silvertailed mermaid by Jan Haworth.
http://sighswhispers.blogspot.com/2010/04/photos-of-day-twiggy-on-mermaid-trail.html

Guy Bourdin for Nova

Dress by Janice Wainwright. December 1972

 

1963 Fashions

I am working on costume for a reconstruction of events in 1963 in Italy, so I thought I’d take the opportunity to have a look at some 1963 fashions. The silhouette has become more boxy than the 50’s nipped waist styles  by this point…

1963 January VOGUE. Photo: Bert Stern. Conde Nast Archive (myvintagevogue.com)

1963. Photo: George Barkentin. Conde Nast Archive (myvintagevogue.com)

http://www.condenaststore.com/ProdDetail.aspx?prodId=23673

From “McCall’s Needlework & Craft”, 1963 http://www.flickr.com/photos/jassy-50/2717540791/

fab page with pics of the Cleopatra craze including make up instructions!

http://www.taylortribute.com/Elizabeth%20Taylor%20-%20Cleopatra%20Craze-01.html

and now some ordinary people…

http://finefix.co.uk/finefix/danieldefoe/dd1963.htm

english school pic

Bargain hunters crowd around racks of coats during sale time at Selfridge’s department store, Oxford street, London.

16th December 1963: Ann Homewood, the oldest licensee in Kent at the age of 91, pulls a pint in The Pig And Whistle for her son, William.

5th December 1963: Teenagers dancing the Loddy Lo, introduced by the band leader Joe Loss.

4th December 1963: People dancing the twist in the Celestial Room of the Amber Mansion, a nightclub in Singapore.

01 Dec 1963 Teenagers dancing at Brad’s Club.

A housewife seems unsure of the results of her cooking, 27th November 1963.

and moving seamlessly on to the Vajont Dam disaster….

ITALY – NOVEMBER 02: Vajont Dam Disaster Victims Funeral Services In Longarone On November 2Nd 1963

13th October 1963, Longarone, northern Italy, Villagers in the rubble in the village below the Vajont (Vaiont) Dam in Northern Italy, On 9th October 1963

13th October 1963, Longarone, northern Italy, A priest kneels beside a dead body in the village below the Vajont

Dead bodies in the village below the Vajont (Vaiont) Dam

Evacuated Villager From Erto In Venice On 1963

NOVEMBER 25: Vajont Dam Disaster Trial At Aquila In Italy On November 25Th 1968

Longarone Village After Vajont Dam Disaster On October 1964

Father identifing body of daughter after Vaiont Dam disaster.

Survivors of Vaiont Dam disaster identifing bodies of victims.

Giovanni Piucci searching ruined home after Vaiont Dam disaster.

Embellishment for Regency Dresses

I’m trying to get some inspiration fro trimming my regency dress.

Images and text nabbed from a variety of sources.

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Military influence in the Spencer jacket, with braided piping, 1815. Image: Kyoto Costume Institute.

not really relevant put still gorgeous… and amazing pics all over the site

http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2010/02/military-influence.html

Here is a scrumptious early 1820s ballgown (when all the puffs and furbelows really came into style with a bang!)

dunno what this says and its too early but very pretty anyway!

http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=8

			Luk vinduet

				Luk vinduet

			Luk vinduet

interesting to see the closure of the above dress:

knitted? crocheted? it looks so 70s! I think this says circa 1800

			Luk vinduet

interesting but not very relevant working class or middle class day to day dress (i think!) http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=81

must stop getting distracted by this site…!

1811, mourning dress above

again not relevant but… 1837 Morning and Evening dresses fashion plate…

Magic Hat!

Random, but awesome!

Breaking Down Costumes

Great series of films on the National Theatre  site, this is the one about breaking down costumes

http://www.nationaltheatre.org.uk/40142/costume-making/breaking-down-costumes.html

Some useful instructions from The Costumers Manifesto: http://www.costumes.org/advice/costcraftsmanual/tmpjk15.htm

Historic Costume Shops Links

This will be an expanding post as I find new shops!

GENERAL

http://www.westpointsutlers.org/ [UK]

http://www.darcyclothing.com/announce/ [UK]

http://www.thecostumestore.co.uk/ [UK]

http://www.farthingalecostumes.com/ [UK]

The Historical Costume Company http://www.thehcc.co.uk/ [UK]

http://jas-townsend.com/ [USA]

http://www.sutlers.co.uk/ [USA]

http://www.gentlemansemporium.com [USA]

DANCEWEAR

http://www.stagestruckdancewear.com/ good for regency-ish slipper shoes, and other vintage-esque shoe styles. [UK]

HATS

http://www.top-hats.com/ [USA]

http://hatcrafters.com/ [USA]

http://www.clearwaterhats.com/default.htm [USA]

SUPPLIES

http://www.alteryears.com/ [USA]

PATTERNS

http://www.pastpatterns.com/ [USA]

http://www.kannikskorner.com/ [USA]

http://www.folkwear.com/ [USA]

http://www.figleafpatterns.com/Home.php [USA]

http://www.longago.com/ [USA]

Men’s Regency Fashion

widefall and narrowfall breeches

Comparison of wide and narrow fall breeches.

Apparently there was a type of fly called the French fly that wasnt worn in England much but can be seen here…

french fly breeches

From this site, a great article on breeches: http://historicalhussies.blogspot.com/2010/03/regency-mens-clothing-pants-breeches.html

Regency coats article: http://www.vintageconnection.net/RegencyCoats.htm

Suzi Clarke’s costume resources links page: http://www.suziclarke.co.uk/links.php

possible for hire… http://www.farthingalecostumes.com/www.farthingalecostumes.coms/info.php?p=15&pno=0&pid=405140&cat=&ack=9&search=&sought=

 

Women’s Regency Fashion

WALKING DRESS. La Belle Assemblée - April Vol. 7, No. 44 (1813)

I’m working on a Napoleonic zombie film (who hasn’t?!) so I’m going to have a look at regency fashions. I have a zombie peasant girl and a wealthy young woman for female characters. My lady is traveling so I’m ignoring evening wear etc.

Original text for pic above: “Jacconet [sic] muslin high dress, made a walking length, and richly embroidered up the front, round the collar, and round the bottom of the sleeve, which is very long, and rather more loose than they have been worn. The embroidery in front, as our readers will see by the Plate, is divided, and goes up the bosom in a slope on each side. Round cottage mantle of stone-coloured fine cloth, richly embroidered in floss silk of the same colour, and lined with delicate pink.” http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/reg3.html

What’s In The Wardrobe?

Undergarments: Chemise, stockings with garters tied beneath the knees, short stays, one or more petticoats.

Casual or “Undress”: Also called “deshabille.” Informal dress including walking dress or morning dress.

“Half-Dress”: Mid-level formality worn from the early afternoon to early evening. Promenade Gown- could be casual or half dress, for shopping, afternoon visits, Carriage Dress–a bit fancier than Promenade.

Dinner Gown and Opera Gown: these sound like they would be extremely formal, but they’re still not as elaborate as “full dress.”

Formal or “Full Dress”: Evening wear for balls, soirees, court occasions.

Outdoor Wear: Pelisse, shawl, spencer (short jacket), redingote, mantle, or cape.

Accessories: Gloves, bonnet, fan, reticule (small handbag), parasol, fichu or tucker.

Footwear: Slipper shoes (like ballet shoes), half boots (ankle boots), mules (backless shoes with small heels) or pattens (for outdoor wear to keep shoes off the ground).

the thin long shape of shawl

http://www.victoriana.com/Regency-Era/regencyfashions-1811.htm

Walking Dress - Ackermann's Repository July 1815

Fashion Era Regency Fashion page: http://www.fashion-era.com/regency_fashion.htm#Decoration%20That%20Helps%20Identify%20And%20Date%20Dresses%201800-1825

The “History of Costume” or “Zur Geschichte der Kostüme”: http://www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/history.html

Candice Hern’s collections are great! : http://www.candicehern.com/collections/index.htm

La Belle Assemblée October 1808 "Afternoon Walking Dresses"

I like the watch (i presume) you can see on the blue ensemble, you can also see long gloves.

Ackermann's Repository November 1810 "Walking & Morning Dress"

I just lurrve the spotty fur scarf! French tippet of leopard skin shag, apparently.

Original text: “Walking Dress [standing]— Robe of White Indian muslin, with Spanish vest and Flemish skirt, ornamented at the bottom, bosom, and sleeves with needlework, or appliquéd lace; antique cuffs, pointed collar, fastened in the center of the throat with a topaz broach. Bonnet á la Mary Queen of Scots, composed of intertwined crape and straw, and lined throughout with rose-coloured sarsnet; the extremity of the crown finished with Vandyke scallops in white satin, the edges terminated with straw; a small bouquet of autumnal flowers in front, blended with bows of white satin ribbon, and tied under the chin with the same. French tippet of leopard skin shag. Shoes and gloves of rose-coloured kid.”

As ever, really hard to find images of working class women, so I’m starting with servants…

Register Office for the Hiring of Servants, Thomas Rowlandson, c. 1800-05

no ref

no ref

no ref

no ref

Russian peasant costume

Im researching costume for Catherine I of Russia’s early life – she was born in 1684 to peasant parents who died when she was 3 and worked as a housemaid until she was picked up by Peter the Great and married him, ruling Russia as the first female ruler after his death. So the research is for a working class girl around 1700 living in Russia. Working class costume is always harder to research so I’m going to begin with the general silhouette of the time, Peter the Great was keen on westernising Russia of I think we can assume this would have been the usual mode.

I love this blog about folk costume, loads of interesting details and pictures. This is a sarafan which is a Russian dress, essentially a tube, gathered or pleated at the top with shoulder straps. The ones pictured here are higher status.

There’s loads of interesting costume stuff on this site, I love the woven bark shoes and all the embroidery.

http://folkcostume.blogspot.com/

On another website I found some wonderful pictures, this is a 1784 Russian peasant. Red is considered the most attractive colour, associated with the word ‘beautiful’. A large headdress indicates the woman is married, a smaller headdress or diadem shows that the woman is unmarried. The website states that the cut was very similar between low and high status clothing except for materials and ornament.

http://www.tristarmedia.com/bestofrussia/dress.html

Here is a drawing of Ukrainian peasants in 17th-18th C, I don’t know the source of this illustration however. http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Costume/CossackGear.htm

These are lovely drawings of folk costume from here…

http://illustratedinfullcolourthroughout.blogspot.com/2009/04/russian-traditional-dress-set-of.html

These are costumes from central Russia…

This is north Russia….

These are of south Russia…

“The Russian Peasant Girl” by Jean Baptiste Leprince (1734-1781). She seems to be dressed, how shall we say… a little immodestly! But she isn’t wearing any of the colourful folk costume that we have previously seen, folk costume was partially a 19thC invention, partly used for special occasions and festivals.

William Carrick (1827 – 1878), photographer….

http://www.nls.uk/collections/foreign/slavonic

Thats going to be it for now, I need to do some book learnin’ about the cut of clothing around 1700, hopefully I can find some more interesting visual research too.

Catherine I: Housemaid and Empress of Russia

I’m researching  Catherine I of Russia for a costume brief. Catherine I had an extraordinary life, born in 1684 as Martha Skavronskaya, a peasant, and dying in 1727 the Empress of Russia. Her father is variously reported to be a runaway landless serf, a grave digger or a handy man, he died with Catherine’s mother of plague in 1689. She was brought up by a pastor where she remained uneducated and illiterate working as a housemaid for his household.

She was considered a very attractive young lady and with fears that she would get involved with the families son she was married off to a Swedish dragoon when she was 17, but she only stayed with him for 8 days. After working as housemaid in various houses she eventually became employed by Prince Aleksandr Menshikov who was the best friend of Peter the Great. Peter met her in 1703 while visiting his friend and took her as a mistress.

She converted to orthodoxy taking on the name Catherine in 1705 and she and Peter married in secret in 1707, having 12 children only 2 of which survived. Catherine accompanied him on military campaigns and when St Petersburg was being built they lived with their children in a 3 room log cabin like an ordinary couple.

Officially married in 1717, after Peter died she became the first female ruler of Russia until her death.

According to reports she was unshockable, enjoyed vulgar jokes, heavy drinking and was extremely strong!

This is Catherine in the 1710s by an unknown artist.

This is Catherine I in 1717 by Jean-Marc Nattier.

A quote from the delightful Princess Wilhelmina of Bayreuth declares “the Tsarita was short and stocky with a very swarthy complection having no distinction or grace. One only had to look at her to see that she was low born… She had a dozen orders and relics sewn all along the facings of her dress, so that when she walked you would have thought you heard a mule jingling.  …From her clothes you could have mistaken her for some German strolling player.”

“The family of Peter the Great 1717” by GS Musikiysky

This is 1717 again by Carel de Moor

Here she is in 1718 by Jacobus Houbraken.

“She has a pleasing plumpness, the colour of her face is very white with traces of natural quite high colour, her eyes are dark and small, her hair the same colour long and thick, fine neck and hands, a mild and very pleasant expression” written by a foreign observer.

This is a portrait by an unknown artist around 1724.

Catherine I in 1724 by Heinrich Bucholz. By this point her looks are reported to have been ruined by heavy drinking

I’m going to divide this post up because its going to get really long otherwise! Next up: Russian peasant clothing around 1700.